This food-obsessed Londoner wasn't going to let coeliac disease stop her from hunting down the most delicious gluten-free grub. Here's her pick of where to go and what to order.
Bed-bound for two weeks. Walking around in an exhausted fog. Hair loss. Anaemia. Nausea. Stomach pain. Weight loss. These are the effects of coeliac. Coeliac is an auto immune disease so severe that even the briefest exposure to gluten can cause the above reaction; even something as simple as re-using water which pasta has been cooked in or using butter with breadcrumbs in can trigger it. All this makes eating out in restaurants particularly tricky and potentially dangerous.
1 in 100 people currently suffer with coeliac and, according to Coeliac UK, another half a million are living with the condition but don’t know it yet. One of my besties, Chloe, 29, was diagnosed as coeliac in 2015 after an entire summer of being practically bed-bound. But even after missing festivals, holidays, hen dos, many a beer garden sesh and feeling totally miserable, the diagnosis didn’t come as much of a relief.
“I used to be such a gluten fiend,” says Chloe. “Never paying much attention to what I ate, I loved eating fresh bread, Asian dumplings, Japanese steamed buns and so many other foods you wouldn’t realise had gluten in. Not too mention my love affair with pasta...”
“I love food and eat out in London two-three times a week and that was something I thought I’d have to give up,” Chloe continues. “I thought I’d never be able to eat out again.
Chloe's reaction to eating gluten is severe and can last for three to four weeks. "If I have so much as the tiniest speck of gluten, I’m bed-bound for weeks, and after that I feel like I’m walking around in a fog, so tired I’m tripping over my own feet,” says Chloe. "It’s horrible. Awful.”
Determined not to give up one of life’s greatest pleasures: a great meal in a great restaurant, Chloe has spent the last 18 months researching the best gluten-free restaurants in London.
If you’re in a hurry, scroll straight down to Chloe’s restaurant recommendations, but if you’re newly diagnosed as a coeliac or gluten-intolerant, here’s Chloe’s cheat sheet on the questions to ask if you're looking for safe restaurants:
• Always call ahead and ask if they cater for coeliacs. You’ll be able to get a good sense straightaway that they know what they’re doing.
• Don’t be embarrassed to ask questions. Check the restaurant uses separate utensils and double check they cook things with gluten in separately.
• Beware of condiments. “With ketchup, for example, someone might have touched it with their burger bun - that would be cross contamination.”
• If the staff aren’t clued up, get the hell out of there. “I’ve only had two experiences in the last 18 months when I’ve phoned up to check they cater for gluten allergies to turn up to find they don’t, and I didn’t hang around. It’s not worth it.”
The list of restaurants below are pros at all things coeliac and will make you feel listened to, reassured and at ease, so all you have to do is sit back and enjoy the food. So here you have London’s best gluten-free restaurants:
1. Som Saa
This buzzing Thai restaurant started life as a pop-up in Climpsons Arch near London Fields, now housed in a former fabric factory in Spitalfields, it’s loud, spicy and down-to-earth. Some say it’s the best Thai restaurant in London.
Chloe’s gluten-free plus point: The staff were very knowledgeable about coeliac and I didn't even need to explain about cross contamination, which was so nice.
Chloe’s go-to dish: Gaeng Panang Neua Kem ('panang' curry of braised salted beef cheeks and thai basil) with sticky rice. Delicious.
2. Dishoom
Having travelled from Mumbai through to Kerala, Dishoom transports me straight back to India everytime - from the Bombay café-style décor to the spices of the house chai which makes me feel as if I’m back on an Indian sleeper train.
Chloe’s gluten-free plus point: Dishoom has an extensive gluten-free menu. The staff are extremely clued up, to the point where they told me which dishes were prepped near to gluten foods. You know you’re in safe hands here.
Chloe’s dish of choice: I recommend having the house black daal - their signature dish, which is simmered for 24 hours to enhance the flavour; Masala Prawns or Prawns Moilee if you’re pushing the boat out; Lamb Boti Kabab and Chicken Ruby for a complex, tomato-based curry.
3. Hoppers
As is the trend in London, there are no reservations at this Sri Lankan in Frith Street, Soho, but if you’re up for the queue, it’s well worth the wait. Plus, it’s such good value – the Hoppers and Dosas start at £4.
Chloe’s gluten-free plus point: Owned by restaurateur and foodie genius Karam Sethi. I first heard of him when I ate at his Mumbai-based seafood restaurant, Trishna, since then he’s opened a London outpost and set up Gymkhana. I felt very comfortable eating here as a coeliac.
Chloe’s dish of choice: Sri Lankan rice pancake filled with curry – I recommend the Egg Hopper (£4.50), which is served with chutneys.
4. Ottolenghi
Ottolenghi is famous for creating Middle eastern flavours with an unusual twist. The food here is always fresh and always interesting. Fun fact: Yotam Ottolenghi is basically single-handedly responsible for the fact that most of the UK now sprinkles pomegranate seeds on everything.
Chloe’s gluten-free plus point: All Ottolenghi restaurants, and sister brasserie NOPI, offer separate gluten-free menus which change seasonly.
Chloe’s go-to dish: The menus differ by restaurant location but the dishes I swear by are the pork belly, squash with Indian spices and peanut butter pudding.
5. Banh Banh
A great little independently-run Vietnamese street food restaurant in Peckham, run by five siblings whose recipes are based on the cooking of their Saigon-based grandma.
Chloe’s gluten-free plus point: The staff are so friendly and totally allergy-aware, and not just gluten, these guys are clued up on all lactose/nut/sugar allergies.
Chloe’s go-to dish: The tiger prawns wrapped in mini savoury turmeric and coconut Banh Khot pancakes served with herbs and nuoc cham dipping sauce. Unbelievably good. (£9).
6. Honest Burger
Honest started out in Brixton back in 2011 before going on to become the burger phenomenon that it is now. With a simple menu, these guys are responsible for some of the best burgers in London.
Chloe’s gluten-free plus point: Gluten-free buns, gluten-free fries, gluten-free onion rings and even gluten-free beer. I can almost, almost forget I’m coeliac here.
Chloe’s go-to dish: Honest Burger’s specials are always exciting and seasonal, but the Tribute burger is hard to beat: beef patty with American cheese and burger sauce, French mustard, pickles and lettuce. All gluten-free. Glorious.
7. The Other Naughty Piglet
Tasty food served as small plates in Andrew Lloyd Webber’s new theatre The Other Palace in Victoria. The restaurant is the sister of Brixton’s Naughty Piglets, which has had rave reviews for years.
Chloe’s gluten-free plus point: This place is all about the small plates so good for sharing and as a coeliac I can try a variety of food.
Chloe’s go-to dish: I love the BBQ pork belly sizzling with Korean spices (£11) and the grilled pear served with Jerusalem artichokes, hazelnuts and blue cheese (£10). Finally somewhere decent to eat in Victoria.
8. Shoryu
A London chain with a refreshingly short menu serving reliably tasty ramen. Because some days, only a piping hot bowl of salty ramen will do.
Chloe’s gluten-free plus point: It was a rare treat to be able to eat authentic Japanese steamed buns stuffed with delicious fillings. Great choices on the fillings, too: char siu barbecue pork belly, soy marinated chicken karaage, tiger prawn tempura, grilled halloumi & shimeji mushrooms. This find has changed my culinary world.
Chloe’s go-to dish: It’s all about the 'Shoryu buns' and be sure to ask for the gluten-free option. The ramen was also really, really good. Go for the Miso Wafu chicken and, again, ask for gluten-free noodles.
9. Apres Food Co.
A great lunchtime spot in Clerkenwell owned by Catherine and Danny. Catherine is a Nutritional Therapist and has more qualifications than you can shake a stick at so really gets the affect gluten can have on the body.
Chloe’s gluten-free plus point: Apres Food Co.’s recipe for gluten-free fresh bread makes for one of the best bread rolls I've had in 18 months of being gluten-free. It's a revelation.
Chloe’s go-to dish: The sandwiches also have interesting fillings, too. I have the chicken Thai salad, but they'll rustle up anything you fancy.
10. Senzala Creperie
Nestled in Brixton Village, super-filling crepes and Brazalian-style tapas are the order of the day.
Chloe’s gluten-free plus point: The owner’s wife is coeliac so he's really clued up on how to avoid cross-contamination.
Chloe’s go-to dish: The buckwheat pancakes come in moreish flavours - both sweet and savoury. I'm all about the goat's cheese and ham.
12. Duck & Waffle
Open 24-hours a day, 40 floors up at the top of Heron Tower, Duck & Waffle is a London classic. Whizz up in a lift that makes your ears pop for game-changing cocktails created by mixologist Rich Woods and ‘gluten-conscious’ food.
Chloe’s go-to dish: Apart from the panoramic views of London's skyline, it’s Duck & Waffle’s signature dish I keep going back for: crispy duck leg confit, fried duck egg, mustard maple syrup (£17) - a clever blend of sweet and savoury.
If you’re still hungry, head down a couple of floors to Sushi Samba…
13. Sushi Samba
Chloe’s go-to dish: I ordered the Moqueca Mista large plate to share with friends; it’s a seafood, coconut milk paella-style dish with shrimp, squid, sea bass, mussels, clams and chimichurri rice (£34).
14. Beyond Bread
A 100% gluten-free cafe with a huge range of mouth-watering baguettes, pastries and quiches. Think: red velvet cupcakes, banana bread, chocolate and walnut brownies as well as soft, fresh ciabatta, brioche and pumpernickel. They also sell gluten-free bread to take away with you.
