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The lowdown: There are bad trends and good trends. Bad is foam and smoke, and we won’t be shedding a tear at its demise. Good is the raging bistronomy movement in France and across Europe, with its focus on back to basics food taken up several notches by its attention to detail worthy of an haute gastro temple, but without the stuffiness, or obscene prices. In the leading pack of proponents is Stéphane Jégo at the hotter-than-July Basque diner Chez L’Ami Jean. The restaurant looks like any number of innocuous bistros in the city, with its wooden façade, frosted window panels and red awning, while inside is tighter than a clam’s armpit, with a clutter of prints, rugby and pelote (a sort of racquet ball) faddle and closely packed tables and chairs.

What's on the menu: But it’s about the food, darling, and what a mouthwatering menu it is, whether you go regular à la carte or the daily specials scrawled on a chalkboard, or from seafood to meat. Think cheese and charcuterie, fennel ice cream with asparagus, skate in vinaigrette, guinea fowl fricassee, veal kidneys in butter, caramelised chicken wings and suckling pig. If the whole roasted duck foie gras or rice pudding is on, don’t hold back, order it. The best thing is, such a feast won’t mean having to live on gruel for the rest of your trip, especially the good value prix fixe menu. Of course, everyone wants in on such deliciousness, so book well ahead, and go for the second sitting. Bon apetit!

Find it: 27 rue Malar. T: +33 147 058 689. W: amijean.eu

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The above suggestions are selected exclusively for InStyle.co.uk by LUXE City Guides (luxecityguides.com), the consummately stylish pocket travel guide, packed with astute, opinionated information for the busy and sophisticated visitor.