Vetements Does Couture: Can We Expect DHL T-shirts At The Most Glam Of Fashion Weeks?

Vetements Does Couture: Can We Expect DHL T-shirts At The Most Glam Of Fashion Weeks?

It’s the label that the fashion world is totally losing its shit over and now it's going to Paris Couture Week…but our fashion features editor just doesn’t see the appeal of Vetements

At Paris fashion week in March, there was one label that EVERYONE was talking about (or wearing): Vetements. And since it was announced this week that the fashion house has been invited by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture to have a guest slot at Paris Couture Week, it's the talk of the town again. The design collective - headed up by Demna Gvasalia, who since October 2015 has also been the creative director at Balenciaga - had fashion editors and street style stars literally losing their shit over deconstructed dresses, ripped jeans and, err, a black raincoat. When people talked about Vetements I kept hearing words like ‘energy’ and ‘scene’ and ‘I NEED that dress!’. I chatted to a well-respected, level-headed fashion editor of a broadsheet newspaper in the lobby of our hotel and she was obsessing over the jeans. And InStyle’s own editor Charlotte Moore was whipped into a frenzy about the floral dresses. ‘It's about a dress that's feminine and sexy but still seriously cool’ she said, ‘and not just because of the hype - but because that deconstructed cut gives them a loose, louche almost ill-fitting look, that's very fashion right now.’

I think I must be missing something. These are people whose opinions I really respect but I just can’t see what they see. Because for me, frayed jeans, torn dresses, grey marl tracksuits and delivery man logo T-shirts are just really, really ordinary. You could find them in a charity shop or alter them yourself; those signature jeans hems (above) in particular are totally do-able. When I had a closer look in the showroom in Paris and inspected the collection up close, I actually got a bit cross. What the hell is everyone getting so excited about? Surely the guys at Vetements are taking the piss and we’re all the butt of their joke?


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But a quick look at Net-a-Porter or Matches and you’ll see that the hefty price tags are no laughing matter. Not only that, many of the items – including £1,070 over-knee sock heeled boots (practical!) and a £415 hoody – have completely sold out. You can still bag yourself a DHL T-shirt for £185 though. Phew. (Alternatively, you can order one on DHL’s online store for $6.50. I don’t know how much the shipping costs would be but presumably, you’d still be saving well over £100) Amusingly, a parody brand has now appeared called Vetememes, selling those black raincoats but emblazoned with the Vetememes logo. They’re currently on pre-order for $59…and have Gvasalia’s blessing. Considering all the brands Vetements are parodying, that seems only fair.

Anyway, I realise that Vetements are making a statement and subversing fashion with their tongue-in-cheek designs, much in the same way that Jeremy Scott did for his McDonald’s Moschino collection in 2014. But unlike Moschino, whose iPhone cases will only set you back around £50 (and you’ll use them every day), nothing in Vetement’s collection is cheaper than £180. It’s all very well having fun with fashion, but some of us have got to pay the mortgage, thank you very much. If I’m going to invest in a pricey item of clothing I want it to be something that is universally beautiful, appreciated by everyone, and won’t be so dated I can’t possibly wear it to fashion week next season. Because by September you can forget the DHL T-shirt: everyone will be wearing the Vetements single sleeve lumberjack shirt (below). It remains to be seen whether Vetements' couture offereing - which will have to adhere to strict rules such as the house having a Paris-based atelier with at least 20 staff - will be a different beast to its usual deconstructed parodies and something altogether more beautiful...


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