Trend 1. Girl Power
Seen at: Celine, Chloe, Paul Smith, Philosophy, Rochas, Valentino, Marco de Vincenzo and Anya HindmarchOverall SS17 has a feeling of femininity to it, but it’s not as straight forward as pink and frills, even though they do make an appearance. The ruffles are statements, resulting in power sleeves (Anya Hindmarch, Marco de Vincenzo) and collars (Chloe) and dresses have modern silhouettes, often oversized. As well as every shade of pink from rose to cerise, add a dash of lilac.
Trend 2: Primrose Hill Set
Seen at: Chanel, Chloe, Emilio de la Morena, Erdem, MaxMara, Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, 3.1 Phillip Lim and Roksanda
Nearly every show had one full look of yellow – that’s head-to-toe, often including shoes and a hat (see MaxMara). Undeterred by the fact that it can be a difficult colour to wear, we saw shades of primrose, canary and gold on everything from beautiful frocks (Erdem) to sporty trouser suits (Chanel).
Trend 3: Power Ballads
Seen at: Dolce and Gabbana, Gucci, Kenzo, Louis Vuitton, Topshop Unique, Vetements, Balenciaga, Saint Laurent
The Eighties are back, and we’re talking eveningwear and power dressing that Alexis Colby would be proud of. Think black PVC, metallics and shiny red and blue fabrics, as well as a spattering of leopard or zebra print. There were even shoulder pads and more of THE detail of the season, ruffles. Oh, and don’t forget the pixie boots.
Trend 4: Shipwreck Chic
Seen at: Alexander McQueen, Bora Aksu, Bottega Veneta, Dries van Noten, Erdem, Eudon Choi, Gucci and Acne Studios
Erdem’s show was based on a dress from the 1600s found in a shipwreck off the Dutch coast, but his wasn’t the only show with a similar vibe. Edwardian-style dresses in hues of blue, sea green and grey with slightly torn and frayed edges also popped up at Alexander McQueen and Gucci.
Trend 5: 6th Form Chic
Seen at : Christopher Kane, Rochas, Stella Jean, Vetements, Alexander McQueen, Coach, Dior and Preen by Thornton Bregazzi
Anyone who was in the Sixth Form in the Nineties will be familiar with this trend; long skirts teamed with logo tees, sweatshirts and leather or army surplus-style jackets and finished with stomping boots. What’s not to love?
Trend 6: Mexican Blanket
Seen at: Alexander McQueen, Balmain, Bottega Veneta, Emilio de la Morena, Joseph, Proenza Schouler, Acne Studios and Loewe
The brightly knitted stripes and patchwork at many shows reminded us of Mexican blankets, and the ponchos worn in the southern Americas. Bags and sleeves were decorated with tassels and fringing and we saw plenty of colourful embroidery, too.
Trend 7: Cyber Geeks
Seen at: Dior, DKNY, Joseph, Louis Vuitton, Vetements, Victoria Beckham, Chanel and Maison Margiela
The theme at Chanel was circuit boards and the cyber world, although it was a shame Karl Lagerfeld didn’t style every look with those cool Daft Punk-style helmets (not that we don’t want to see models’ faces, of course!). There was a futuristic feel at other shows too, with white, silver and reflective bright colours, as well as visors that would have looked at home on the set of Blade Runner.
Trend 8: Bathing Belles
Seen at: Anya Hindmarch, Emilio de la Morena, Fendi, Isabel Marant, Maison Margiela, Miu Miu, Prada and 3.1 Phillip Lim
OK, so it’s hardly a trend to see swimwear in the Spring/Summer collections, but for SS17 it feels distinctly retro, with low-rise briefs and swimsuits, and even the odd old lady swimming hat (see one of our favourite shows of the season, Miu Miu). For the most part, it was styled with long jackets and cardigans – the beach cover-ups of the future?
Trend 9: Modern Utility
Seen at: Isabel Marant, Joseph, Kenzo, Marni, Mulberry, Stella McCartney, Vetements and Ellery Even more prevalent that most seasons (because utility is always there somewhere), this season’s utility is smart and sophisticated in shades of olive and beige. What makes it modern? The minimal feel (no military buttons or lapels) and the addition of soft curves (Stella McCartney) and ruffles (Ellery).