How Vetements Shook Up Couture Week

How Vetements Shook Up Couture Week
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4 ways they broke the typical couture rules...

Smiling and giggling is not the typical front row behaviour you spot, especially at couture fashion week. But this was the natural reaction from many showgoers at yesterday's Vetements debut couture show who proved they were once again masters at creating satirical pieces, that are akin to viral memes in clothes form. Ever since the brand who made a DHL t-shirt last year’s cult piece, announced they were going to show during at Paris couture, everyone has been speculating about what they would do. Unsurprisingly, it was nothing like the usual decadent couture shows we’ve come to expect. Here’s four ways they broke the typical couture rules…

1. The setting
Having ticked off shows in an underground sex club, a Chinese restaurants and an American church, yesterday Vetements added the Parisian department store Galeries Lafayette to their list. With a single row of seating, everyone had a very democratic front row experience. The invitations imitated a store directory guide with seating assignments corresponding to the brand whose section of the store they fell in front of, think Acne, Apple and Pucci.

2. The un-couture couture…
Subverting the typical fashion week calendar, Demna Gvasalia and co decided to present their spring summer 17 collection that would usually have been shown during PFW in October. Meaning they had three months rather than six to design and create the collection. And what do you do when you don’t have an in-house atelier of seamstresses like most couture house have? In Vetements case you team-up with 18 brands who typically embody the rebel spirit to challenge the lead time. From Carhartt to Canada Goose and Reebok, it included both men and womenswear.

3. The clothes themselves….
Forget those typical couture fabrics such as organza, lace and chiffon, on the Vetements runway it was all about denim, satin and even velour. Stand out pieces (read steetstyle bait) included sliding off-the-shoulder over-sized Canada Goose puffa jackets, Levi’s denim jumpsuits and a Commes des Garcons collab gay pride knitted top. But it was the Juicy Couture tracksuits circa Paris Hilton that got everyone snapchatting. Reworked into a high-neck jumpsuit with sewn-in gloves, in cherry red, of course, the Juicy motif came bedazzled.

4. The surprise factor…
Carrie Bradshaw’s fave shoes were also given the Vetements treatment with a collaboration with Manolo Blahnik. Speaking to WWD Blahnik said:  "I think it is of the moment to mix different brands and wear them the way you want. I like the freedom of that—fashion shows have become so boring—hence why I was intrigued and said yes when they approached me.” The result? Kitten heel sling-backs, court shoes with unraveling ankle ties and waist high waders in jewel tones.

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