Bedroom dramas at Prada
You knew you were in for something pretty special when you walked into the huge industrial Prada space and saw beds (in fluffy yellow, red leather, retro prints, hot pink and black, you name it there was a bed in it) instead of seats. Then plastered to the ‘bedroom’ walls were pretend movie posters, and around the beds - keepsakes and polaroids - a kind of fabulous teenage bedroom or University dorm. Whatever, it cleverly evoked that idealistic rites of passage – when creating your own identity – culturally and politically, finding your style, realizing your own beliefs and voicing your opinions - is so important. There were no sloganned tees in Mrs Prada’s collection but as the clothes kicked off with a loose fitting corduroy trouser suit and sexy crocheted bikini top (late sixties/early seventies) you couldn’t help thinking that youthful activism, so crucial to that era was something she wanted the audience to think about. But in the end it was the clothes that we were all seduced by most: coats finished with feathers, furry knee high boots, angora jumpers and pencil skirts in clashing colours. Everything that you never thought would work together, just did and brilliantly. A curious and quirky glamour that surely is Prada at its absolute best.
A show full of rubbish at Moschino
It always starts with the invite – last season a bottle full of pills, before that acid yellow workman’s hard hat, a pair of white v-fronts, this time it was a mousetrap with a piece of paper cut to look like Swiss cheese. Jeremy Scott’s Moschino is a shot of plastic, fantastic wit – whether its via a Barbie or a squirt of windowlene - amongst tailored, tasteful Milanese chic. This time around his poke at consumerism went one step further with a collection of looks born out of everyday trash. Opening with models in neat suits and jackets made to resemble removal van materials (think suits out of moving blankets and a cardboard suit trimmed with packing tape) before he ramped up the soundtrack (hello George Michael) for a ball-gown fashioned out of a shower curtain complete with a huge swinging stole from something that looked very much like a bath mat. And we haven’t even mentioned the handbag with a loo roll hanging from it. LOL!!
All fired Up At Versace
The venue, a huge O2-like building on the out-skirts of Milan, the A-list models (Gigi, Binx, Adwoa and Amber Valletta who closed the show) plus the booming high energy soundtrack, all makes going to a Versace a pretty amazing event. Pounding down the runway, this was a collection with fire in its belly – not just in the hair. There were tailored jackets and coats (with serious power shoulders) dresses that would work on Type A bosses for sure, plus brilliant jumpers - bit cosy for Donatella, not these cool and colourful babies. If you never thought you’d look good in Versace it’s definitely time for a rethink.
Legs on Fire at Fendi
‘Likes’ are all very well, but making clothes that hundreds of women (many of whom may have less than a thousand followers) actually think they’ll wear again and again is probably worth thinking about. For Fendi’s Autumn/Winter 17/18 collection designers Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi, wearability rather than digital hits, seemed to be higher up on their agenda. There were no furry Karlito’s, or Fendi monsters instead there were gosammer silk mid-length dresses, Prince of Wales check trousers and beautifully tailored scarlet coat. Frivolity might have been put to one side but every single model wearing skinny red leather boots (most of them thigh high) this collection had a grown up sexual charge that will have women coming back and back for more.
A Venetian Romance At Alberta Ferretti
With her wistful, wispy gowns and floor-sweeping coats and cloaks Alberta Ferretti’s vision has always been romantically inclined, but it was to Venice that the designer took us to this season, on the ultimate romantic journey. A smokey-eyed Gigi Hadid opened the show, looking like 21st century Repunzel in a chiffon gown printed with the postcard image of Venice complete with gonolas and Venetian palaces. And the Venetian theme carried through with varying degrees of opulence to coats, sweaters and capes. But although Gigi and Bella grabbed most of the iphone attention it was Somalian model Halima Aden who was the surprise casting in the show. Dressed in a black a bias cut chiffon gown styled with a hajib this beautiful new face was a sign that even in conservative Milan, the need for more diverse model casting is an important inevitability.
Riot Girls At Fausto Puglisi
If you have ever been to an Italian nightclub and had an f****ing amazing time then you would have loved this show - and probably wear some of the clothes too. It kicked off with slightly random short film (power-bitch finds ornate red dress amongst Greco-Roman statues in the National Architectural Museum in Naples). Cue banging techno and a crew of stomping models in chunky embellished brogues, French maid style stockings and a flurry of short, asymmetric, embellished skirts, dresses and the kind of oversized bombers that likes of Rita Ora will be rocking for sure.
So Modern, Max Mara
Get your coat, more specifically get your Max Mara coat. This is what they do best and this is what they did brilliantly this season. Not only that with a perfectly poised palette of crimson, camel and black you couldn’t go wrong if you bought any of the pieces in this show. Everything from the long, tailored, just loose enough to look modern coats to the knits and leanifying trousers. Not so boring that you’d call it work-wear but if you did splash out on any of the separates, for sure you’d be the chic-est person in the office. With Gigi and Somalian Muslim model Halima Aden in the show this Max Mara at its confident best.
Popsicle colour at Emilio Pucci
There are some women who swear by colour. Attention grabbing, mood enhancing, wearing colour can do wonders - apparently. Although Pucci is known for its prints (and there were some of these later), block colour ruled on designer Massimo Giorgetti’s runway. Pea green, tangerine orange, bubblegum pink, this was bright by anyone’s standards. Optimistic yes, fun probably Pucci it may not be the coolest collection in the world but come darkening November, we may well be craving a bit of pep me up and little bit of Pucci might well do the trick.
Something for everyone at Emporio Armani
It started with monochrome – so far so Armani – but moved onto a dizzying array of floppy coats and trousers, floral prints, printed trousers, lace tunic tops and cropped jackets. There was something for everyone, in other words, lots going on in the 82 year old designer’s Emporio Armani collection (always the edgier side of the brand). For the master of androgyny this was something all together different. Sassy and sporty at SportmaxUptown enough for the office but with just the right level of sporty details – zips, windbreakers, roomy sweaters and jumpsuits. A super easy palette of black, white, navy and orange, there were so many pieces in this collection that you could just throw on with what you already own an add instant sass in seconds. Styled with pointy kitten heels and black opaque socks you can just imagine the Sportmax woman whipping them off and replacing them with her Air Max’s en route to the tube. Busy, busy, busy.
Maximalist Bohemia at Etro
With bunting created out of Etro’s fabric archive strung from the rooftops, wandering into the Etro space in Milan was like being transported into the most glamorous glamp-site in the world. Then along the runway came a troop of natural beauties – hair down with minimalist makeup - in a slew of rich colours, paisley prints, fashioned into everything from quilted coats to floaty dresses and while mixing prints, textures and fabrication. A sumptuous, maximalist whirl that was bohemia at its most luxurious.
A Nearly Naked Naomi at Tod’s
Will it be a show, or is it a presentation? It was a little bit unclear as we squeezed past the crowds outside. Inside behind photographers galore was a living sculpture by artist Thomas De Falco which featured naked models (one of them was Naomi Campbell – hence the crowds and the snappers) clad only in white and brown leather. Leather and particularly leather loafers, is of course what Tod’s is known for, but there’s much more to it than that. The ridiculously soft leather was fashioned into skirts and jackets, trenches, belts and bags. But it was the biker jackets (the hot red was our favourite) that stole the show.
And now onto Paris!