the finale at Prada AW16
With many brands jumping on the eclectic bandwagon started by Gucci’s Alessandro Michele a year ago, we’ve been craving some new ideas, and Miuccia Prada was just the woman for the job. Pulling together the most disparate of references, we left the show feeling utterly inspired and totally excited by this show. There was a feeling of Scotland, with Argyle socks, tights and gloves (swoon!) and heavy woollen checks, as well as touches of the great outdoors with hiking-style bovver boots, rain coats and rain skirts with contrast colour zips (hello new type of skirt I didn’t know I needed!). Then there was a nautical theme - many of the models wore jaunty white or navy sailor hats and wedges on shoes were decorated with gold anchors - plus a bit of revolutionary France thrown in for good measure with corsets, lace-up booties and prints taken from paintings. And the bags - oh! the bags! - practical cross body satchels and tiny keyring purses that were attached anywhere and everywhere, including around the neck. We were literally on the edges of our seats waiting for each look to come out. Brilliant.
Wavy lines were the name of the game at Fendi, both in print and structure. This leather house is always pushing the boundaries with what it does; I loved the frills and ruffles on bags and long, over-knee boots, a detail that reminded me of coral and shellfish, and a theme that followed through into cuffs and collars on the ready-to-wear clothing (frilly collars are an emerging trend for AW16, having cropped up at a number of other shows). My favourite detail, though, was the wavy line print on clothes and particularly, bag straps and belts. Gimme gimme.
In his second collection for the brand, Massimo Giorgetti is really starting to make his mark at Pucci. Rather than getting bogged down in the label’s heritage prints, he moved on with some brand new ideas inspired by ski-ing. Of course Pucci wouldn’t be Pucci without some bright patterns, but they were cleverly and subtly weaved into mountain landscapes or came in the form of graphic geometric prints, rather than the psychedelic swirls of Pucci of old. Add to that some cracking separates - skirts and retro block colour sweaters - and you’ve got a very wearable collection.
Jeremy Scott’s Moschino is on fire at the moment. Literally. There’s always a clue to what the show has to offer in the front row phone cover gift which this season was a packet of cigarettes, and the set, which was like an abandoned manor house with huge chandeliers on the floor (NB: set trend, we also saw this at Erdem in London). What we didn’t expect, though, was for models to be wearing ballgowns that were charred at the edges and, in some cases, actually smoking as if they were burning (cue applause from the audience - they clap and cheer mid-show here in Milan). A burnt top hat and tails was perhaps a humorous take on YSL’s Le Smoking (geddit?). There were also pack-of-fags bags and T-shirts with the slogan ‘fashion kills’, some very tongue-in-cheek chandelier earrings (they were actual chandeliers) and a chandelier dress, as well as a dress covered in kindling. LOL.