Architectural shapes at J.W.Anderson

Architectural shapes at J.W.Anderson

Barbara Casasola 

This Brazilian born, London-based designer's collection was very morning-after-the-night-before. Loose cashmere coats fell off the models shoulders so that their sheer bras were purposely seen, others sported silky pyjamas while knits came in gauzy silks. Muted shades hinted at skin tones, materials were tactile and sensual and there were lots of drawstring ruching, attempting to convey what Casasola described as 'tension and release.' But it was the coats that garnered the most #likes. If you bought a camel coat last year hang onto it, if you didn't, add one to your next season shopping list now. CMD

Julien Macdonald

The front row is always a good ‘un at Julien Macdonald, but it wasn’t the likes of Olivia Grant, Rochelle Hume or Ella Eyre that got everyone talking at Saturday afternoon’s show. It wasn’t even the adorable tiny puppy which, bless it, jumped out of its skin in fright when the music started. No, it was Alan Carr, he of Chatty Man fame - possibly the most unlikely but most welcome FROW attendee ever - that was the talk of Twitter. As the models sashayed past in their slinky glitter gowns (NB: there was also LOADS of menswear and the models so buff they were literally bursting at the seams), Alan watched attentively, taking pictures and dancing to the music. He had a whale of a time. Alan, we love you. HR

J.W. Anderson 

Jonathan Anderson was thinking both of interiors and questioning what is modern cocktail wear when designing his latest collection. The result? Lots of architectural shapes and plenty of multi-textured fabrics. There were sculptural mini-skirts, crisp white shirt dresses and decorative zip detailing that ran around cropped kick flare trousers. A quote left on every seat from the interior designer David Hicks hinted at the bold 1950s style colour pops. It was quirky and cool, everything that 'modern cocktail wear' should be. Sure, the average #basicbloke probably won't get it and if you'd ask him what he thought of it he'd probably say it was a bit weird, but who dresses to please him anyway? J.W. Anderson knows it's all about dressing to please yourself. It was definitely the show of Saturday and maybe even the season. CMD

Simone Rocha

Simone Rocha shows always conjure up darkly romantic images of Miss Havisham-like women of a bygone era and this AW16 collection didn’t disappoint, revisiting her trademark themes of crochet and lace, pearl-clad chunky shoes, chandelier earrings, and shades of off-white, black, red and pink. I particularly liked the one-sided embellished collars and heavier tweed-like fabrics. And the hairstyling - always a thing of beauty at Rocha’s shows - lived up to expectation too, with messy, oily knots that somehow made me actually want my hair to look greasy. Weird, but good. HR

Gareth Pugh 

We may have stood outside in the cold for 30 minutes, then sat in our seats for another 30 minutes, but Pugh was totally worth the long wait. Opened by French ballet star Marie-Agnes Gillot, who strode into the Grand Temple of Freemasons' Hall, accompanied by two chiseled male escorts, she took her seat on a gilded chair at the top of the runway. This set the tone for the entire collection - women in power. Pugh sent out a collection of sharp tailoring for even sharper women. There were plenty of sharply cut jackets, slim skirt suits and eighties (yep that decade cropped up again) style flared pants. With the models hair in severe pinned up-dos, their faces stretched with a painful looking clear band that gave them an almost snarl like expression and wearing very clicky clack pointy heels, these were definitely women on a mission. CMD

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