Last night Anthony Vaccarello introduced us to the new Saint Laurent. Judging by the hem lines, nipple covers and barely-there black dresses this Laurent isn’t a Saint but many pilgrims will be worshipping at the new YSL altar.
Showing in a part building site, part former monastery Vaccarello laid down the two key stones of his Saint Laurent: sex and sass. The likes of Edie Campbell, Freja Beha Erichsen and one lone man in a sheer shirt, stomped down the runway in various states of undress with revealing black mini dresses, biker bitch leathers, big sleeves and even bigger shoulders. This Saint Laurent girl is certainly going ‘out OUT’ and she will not be taking any prisoners on the dance floor.
Many of the iconic YSL staples were there, Le Smoking suit, for instance, but it did not appear in its purest of forms: it was distressed, destroyed and displaced. Sleeves appeared to be unceremoniously removed from their jackets, revealing the long over-looked shoulder pad in the process. Some displaced sleeves reappeared as accessories for tank top and trouser combos - it was make do and mend at its very best. Vaccarello is clearly highly resourceful.
The shoulder pad wasn’t the only 80s icon on show, though. Joan Collins circa Dynasty popped by for the final few looks with a selection of asymmetric animal print dresses with slashed shoulders and modesty-defying hemlines. Teamed with matching Pat Butcher-esque earrings (naturally) the looks marked a powerful return for the eighties woman and all her excess. Boys will want to bed her and every girl will want to be her.
Speaking of which, as the previous Creative Director at Versus, Vaccarello is well versed in sex. That was never more prominent than when Binx Walton modelled a strapless black leather mini dress with a missing left hand chest panel - a silver nipple cover was luckily on hand for imagination’s sake. What would the 16th century monks have thought?
For an Instagram-thirsty fashion industry, the spring/summer 2017 collection certainly provided many social media moments. Aside from the larger than life YSL sign suspending from a crane in the French national colours, the black pointed toe heeled pumps with the immortal letters, YSL, forming the heel will be garnering likes for many months to come. I would join the waiting list for those now if I was you.
In the iconic words of Justin Timberlake, Anthony Vaccarello is, ‘bringing sexy back,’ and it’s about time.