It's a pretty big responsibility, being the opening show of London Fashion Week, but J.JS Lee set the bar high on Friday morning with a cracking show. There was plenty of Lee's signature sporty tailoring on offer - modern polo shirts, sweatshirts and tennis-style dresses - demonstrating perfectly what she does so well season after season: beautifully wearable clothes (“wearable clothes” might sound like a prerequisite for a fashion designer, but believe us, we see plenty on the catwalk that isn’t.). There are always classic shapes and styles on offer in her collections, but with the modern twist of an unexpected fabric or an unusual cut.
God is in the details with Lee’s designs, whether it’s ribbons of colour trailing down a tailored shirt or exaggerated sleeve cuffs that look as though they might be hiding huge cufflinks. Mullet hems - that’s skirts that are longer at the back than at the front - played a big part, and appeared on capes, too. The colour palette was mostly neutral, save for a flash of lime green or peach here and there. We were particularly taken with the navy tailoring that had a pop of colour at a jaunty angle. This theme of angles, and curves as well, continued throughout, manifesting in square motifs with a circle inside and perhaps most cleverly, almond toed shoes with squared off soles. Lee ALWAYS does great shoes.
By Hannah Rochell