Carven, Dries Van Noten, Gareth Pugh and Balmain are the It-design houses to open Paris Fashion Week
Following the high-octane glamour of Milan, it was time for a dose of edgy-cool courtesy of the designers kicking off the shows in Paris.
All eyes were on 25-year-old Olivier Rousteing, who presented his first show for Balmain following the abrupt departure of his former boss, Christophe Decarnin, who was responsible for reinvigorating the legendary Parisian house with his sharp-shoulder jackets and stove-pipe trousers. Although carrying on the silhouette that put Balmain back on the fashion map, Rousteing evolved the look with touches of folklore, softening the look. His inspiration was Mexico-meets-Vegas and his fringed jackets, low-slung gold belts and patterned minidresses fitted the bill just so.
Staging his biggest fashion show to date was the man adored by Alexa Chung and Chloe Moretz: Guillaume Henry for Carven. Keeping his shapes girly with fit-and-flare frocks cut out on the midriff, bubble skirts and high-waisted stripy shorts teamed with cropped lace tops in mega-watt hues, the look was as quirky, chic, wearable and, let’s hope, affordable as always.
Our very own Gareth Pugh, who is known for conceptual designs rather than wearable duds, issued robot-like cage dresses and matching knee-high boots intermixed with some pretty sharp tailoring. We’re betting Lady Gaga will be a big fan.
King of print Dries van Noten took us on a tropical holiday with his botanical fern prints. Emblazoned on crisp, clean shapes like buttoned-up Oxford shirts and boxy shift dresses, they looked fresh and modern.
Parading today will be Christian Dior, who hits the runway for a second season without a head designer and celeb favourites Lanvin, Isabel Marant and Roland Mouret.
By Maria Milano