Editor Charlotte Moore reports on the start of Milan Fashion week...
Late flights, glorious Gucci and more 70s rock chicks: Yesterday at Milan Fashion week‘They’ve held the show!’ were the words yelled along the gangway of fight Fash-Italia from City Airport to Milan bright and early yesterday morning. Ever since Alessandro Michele took over as Creative Director, getting that Gucci express has been a pretty stressful experience.
This season more than ever, as a plane full of exhausted fashion journalists sat twitchily on the runway, watching the minutes tick by realizing that all important review of one of the biggest shows of the season was never going to happen. But no, Mr Michele was going to wait – Susie Menkes was on that plane too and there was no way she was going to miss his show.
The editors who had managed to make it on time might have been a little peeved – but it was worth waiting for. The girls walked through a startling tunnel of light with projections of natural drama on one side and shards of light on the other. We were on the outside they were on the inside as girl after girl walked out in Michele’s now signature mash up of vintage meets street meets costume.
I always think of ostentatious librarians when I think of the new Gucci – but there was something more confident about the use of colour: the hair and makeup being different at every turn; the streety sparkly embroidery, the brocade, the specs; one look entirely in canary yellow (from the shoes to the bag to the frock) that made this collection even bolder, more defiantly cool that it is what it is. That everyone loves what he does certainly must help.
From Gucci to Roberto Cavalli - another house that’s been given a cooler kick thanks to designer Peter Dundas (previously at Pucci). Dundas loves that rock and roll vibe and we arrived at the show to a courtyard of candles, champagne on ice and goblets full of violet cream chocolates (fashion director Arabella’s absolute passion).
Suddenly we were wham, bang in the middle of the early 70s and the era of louche, lazy hedonism. If watched the first episodes of hit US tv show Vinyl you’ll know exactly what we mean. But as the languid Cavalli chicks strode past looking fabulous in flares, capes, velvet and lurex long hair falling everywhere you couldn’t help wondering whether real life every actually gets this glamourous. When it does – we’ll be wearing Cavalli all the way.
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