Marco de Vincenzo
He’s fast becoming one of the most exciting names at Milan fashion week, and Friday’s collection from Marco de Vincenzo only helped to cement that reputation. Known for his bold, bright collections and clever fabrics, many fashion editors left the show lusting after the ‘tinsel’ coats - big, printed, sparkly fluffy numbers that looked like snazzy fur but were actually synthetic. The shoes were an architectural wonder, made from ruffles of leather, and I loved the quirky colour combinations of green, maroon, yellow and camel. Texture was key elsewhere too, with frills, pleats, peplums and a honeycomb fabric running throughout the show. Oh and the hair! Every model’s was a slightly different version of a beehive with skinny plaits...I’m currently rummaging around my suitcase hoping I have enough hairspray and grips to recreate it on myself!
You can always rely on Donatella to book the biggest name models for this show; it opened with Gigi Hadid (who suffered an unfortunate wardrobe malfunction) and Karlie Kloss, Kendall Jenner, Adriana Lima and Jourdan Dunn were all present and correct, too. And if models were paid by the metre they’d definitely have all made a fortune, as this was one of longest catwalks I’ve ever seen, circling twice around a huge conference centre (imagine a fashion show in the Excel Centre) but luckily most of the heels were only kitten in height. Although it opened with a run of navy coats and tailoring, this was a colourful collection with print that looked like precious fossils and some striped sporty elements in bright yellow, turquoise and orange. I also felt weirdly nostalgic for the 80s-style ski-pants with elastic stirrups worn over shoes, something I never thought I would hear myself say!
An unexpected result of some of autumn/winter 2016’s collections is that they will make you want to book a holiday in Scotland. At Tod’s, it was the leather kilts and tartan that had me lusting after a trip to Edinburgh, and the rich, warm colour palette of red, tan, purple and turquoise felt rather like the landscape of the Highlands. There were even some shoes that were a heeled take on the hiking boots you might pick up at a branch of Blacks. My absolute favourite thing though, was the chunky Argyle socks worn with flat loafers.