We love it when a trend comes together. As a jet-lagged journo backstage the semblance of a pattern, be it an assortment of smokey eyes, a troupe of taupe lips or a posse of ponys is infinitely satisfying (yes, we’re geeky like that).
And with only one city-down we’re feeling rather smug with ourselves. The trend? Smudgy, sexy, slightly squinty, morning-after eyes focusing on what the make-up artists dubbed ‘deconstructed eyeliner’.
Here are four ways to rock party-girl eyes:
The Rock Chick at Prabal Gurung:
Inspired by artists like William Kentridge and Tracey Emin, the look at Prabal was quite light and optimistic but with a rock ‘n roll, Brit-girl edge. Make-up maestro Diane Kendal referenced ‘cool, self-confident’ girls in the 60s and 70s like Nico adding that the key to keeping it modern is to juxtapose the eyes against super-fresh skin. Here’s how:
‘Start with a light coverage foundation then apply a black khol pencil close to the lashes and along the waterline before blending with a brush and sealing with powder. Follow the natural eye shape but add a little flick right at the ends. Curl the top lashes before applying some mascara to the bottom lashes and a bit of lip balm on the lids. Finish the look with a combination of creamy dusky pink and orangey red blush on the cheeks and some lipbalm on the lips.’
The Partied-Out Prom Queen at 3.1 Phillip Lim:
‘It’s the morning after the dance,’ said Lead Make-up Artist for Nars Francelle Daly. ‘This look is all about customization and deconstruction.’ Francelle described how she was trying to modernize the way we wear eyeliner by playing with shape and negative space, ‘the make-up is meant to look as though the girls danced the night away and their eyeliner stayed perfectly in tact.’ How? Fully saturate the eye with make-up including liquid eyeliner around the lashline (Francelle used Nars’ Carpates Eyeliner Stylo, £21), khol inside the waterline and two coats of mascara before chopping it up and customizing it using a Q-Tip.
The Tough Temptress at Carolina Herrera:
‘Strong, bold and sexy’ was the mantra backstage at Carolina Hererra where Diane Kendal was wielding the khol again, this time adding a glistening eyeshadow over the top and a stained red lip. It was almost a nod to the uber-sexy power make-up of the 80s but everything was diffused down to make it feel modern. The key tool? A smudging brush to soften out any hard lines.
The Cool Club Kid at Rag & Bone:
Make-up artist Tom Pecheux greeted us with the question ‘late night or early morning? You decide.’ What we decided was that either way the models looked cool AF with some smudgy mascara and a ‘naughty’ khol-rimmed eye. ‘Obviously we can’t make the models drink too much and dance all night so instead, the best technique to recreate that effect is to do ‘proper’ eye make-up with khol around the eye and mascara in the roots and then, whilst it’s all still a bit wet, you ask the models to rub their eyes and then just clean up any excess afterwards.’
Feeling inspired? The beauty editors at Powder can match you with your perfect kohl liner in less than 30 seconds...