In beauty speak you hear the term ‘Virgin hair’ bandied around a fair amount but what does it actually mean? Well according to the shows on the first day of London Fashion week it could have meant a number of things.
At Felder Felder, the beauty look was inspired by Lux Lisbon, the protagonist in Sophia Coppola’s 1999 film The Virgin Suicides. The film is set in the ‘70s and Lux played by Kirsten Dunst has the most enviable unprocessed hair (mostly swept over one eye in a seductive fashion.) ‘We’re doing virgin, pure hair’ explained Armin Morbach for Schwarzkopf, ‘it isn’t dirty or greasy like some of the shows we saw in New York. Instead it’s very soft and shiny – just like it is when a model starts her career – before the fashion industry hits her and it becomes ruined and processed.’ It was almost as if the pace of the fashion industry had speeded up so much that it required totally fresh models every season and the hair needed to reflect that.
Morbach was also applying 60cm hair extensions to each girl (that is looong by the way). ‘There’s no clean cut line at the bottom though, it’s like she’s grown it out really long naturally and not cut it.’ He prepped the hair with the Schwarzkopf Blowdry Lotion and then dried it brushing backward from the hairline repeatedly ‘like a girl would do in the mirror at home’.
At J JS Lee the same texture was described as ‘casting hair’. It was a perfect natural soft texture which needed to be ‘neutral and natural’ according to Adam Reid for L’Oreal Professional. He Applied L’Oreal Tecni Art Pli with his fingers to the hair and then braided the hair into 3 pigtails (a plait tripod!), left it to set and then unravelled the braids for a floating wave.
Bora Aksu had virgin hair in mind too. KMS lead artist Sam Burnett got that same light fluffy texture by using a leave in conditioner crème. The final look was inspired by turn of the century photographer Ethelreda Laing and the photos she took of her two young daughters, both of whom had super soft flyaway hair.