They brought us diamante eyeliner and eyebrow rings so perhaps we should have been prepped for a beauty love-in at Rodarte but this morning’s offering was still a pleasant surprise. Here’s how to get the ‘darkly romantic’ look at home;
It was all about a dark lip according to make-up artist extraordinaire for Nars James Kaliardos (a trend we’ve spotted at a few shows this week). “I started with a transparent veil of matte foundation (Nars’ new Velvet Matte Skin Tints to be precise) which I added a shiny contour too on the tops of the cheeks and eyes using a pale shimmery blush with a touch of silver/white eyeshadow over the top,” he explained.
He then lined the waterline with white khol before using black mascara (yes, that’s mascara folks), to strengthen the brows being careful to only touch the hairs rather than filling in the entire brow. The reason? To give it a bit of toughness and prevent it from going too “Airy Fairy Lord Of the Rings”.
And now for that lip; Kaliardos used dark plum lip pencil by Nars in a colour called ‘Train Bleu’; “it can be difficult to get a dark lip right,” he confessed. “The trick is to paint it onto the full extent of the lip, letting the natural lipline do the work which prevents it from going too thin and Edward Scissorhands.” He suggests soften the edges with a Q-Tip for real life although admits that this is still very much a “don’t f**** with me” look, afterall, us girls get ‘messed around’ enough by guys according to Kaliardos.
Wedding hair inspo? Step this way. Odile Gilbert’s ‘undone, romantic’ dos were a lesson in how to do hair accessories the right way. Each model got a slightly different treatment whether it was an organic-looking chignon or loose tendrils but the texture was the same for each.
To prep, she dried in Schwarzkopf’s OSIS + Flatliner using a diffuser, twisting random sections using the fingers for effortless waves. Then comes the cherry on the icing. Each girl got either flowers beautiful yellow orchids and lilies), or art-nouveau-inspired crowns which were applied rather haphazardly to keep it from looking too twee or ‘done’.
“The key to wearing any hair accessory and still making it feel modern and cool is by keeping the texture of the hair a bit undone,” says Gilbert.
The ‘richly romantic’ nails proved that sometimes the best things come out of making a mistake. The lead nail technician for OPI explained that at the hair and make-up test before the show she’d been experimenting with a red nail polish to start with. The designers weren’t quite feeling it and asked if maybe a black could work instead.
As there wasn’t time to remove the original colour she simply painted over the red leaving a little sliver of it showing around the edges and….. the designers loved it! “It’s actually a great way of giving dark colours a bit of depth” she explained to us backstage.