Pastel Punks at Haider Ackermann
We all know about British Punks references, there are plenty of them: from Siouxsie and Vivienne Westwood to the raw characters in photographer Nick Knights series ‘Skinheads’. But what is a Parisian Punk? It’s true the French are partial to a slick of black kohl and a rouge noir lipstick but can a city that is known for being polished and tres sexy every be truly punk?
Well according to the SS16 shows at Paris Fashion Week, Parisian Punk is alive and kicking. Here are 7 ways to be more French with your punk...
1. Switch saturated neon brights for pastel: at Haider Ackerman, hairstylist Camo arrived with a suitcase full of pastel hair pieces. His aim was to create hair that looked like it was coming from a coloured smoke machine. Her crafted tufts of Mohawk that flumed out of messy chignons and swept beautifully around the face like a veil.
2. Choose gothic make-up but keep it beautiful: Lineisy Alexander was creating the make-up look at the same show. ‘It’s definitely not a classic summer beauty look. They are very pale but ethereal. We have luminised the skin with Mac Silver Strobe Cream so they literally look like they are lit from within but very pale. We have completely removed all the colour from the skin. It’s actually a little bit 90s but not in a supermodel way – it’s more of a dark beauty. We’ve used MAC Paint Pot in Groundwork, a taupe, cold, cinnamon brown colour, on the eyes to get a sleepy hollow feeling.’ There was no mascara but she curled the lashes, ‘because we still want them to look beautiful.’
3. Choose Navy nails instead of black: At Mugler manicurist Marian Newman was painting dark navy nails with military precision. ‘The Mugler woman is very strong and very confident’ explained Marian. ‘Navy is a really powerful colour for spring summer, it’s not black but it’s almost black and that’s unusual for Summer.’ Newman gave the nails a chic Parisian detail with little white edge on the outside corner of each nail. ‘The darkness is the strength and the white stroke is the consideration. The Kure Bazaar Nail Polish in Navy goes on in one coat which is a big bonus.’
4. Get your nails pierced: Inspired by Bunnyla – a rabbit character with ear and belly-button piercings dreamt up by the designer Manish Arora – Marian Newman (she’s had a busy week...) was sticking on false thumb nails that resembled little rabbit faces with pierced ears. The great think about nail piercing? It’s doesn’t hurt and you can file it off if you don’t like it. Great for the non committal punk!
5. Use Fake hair as an accessory: Yohji Yamamoto displayed a very punk collection of all black dresses and one crimson red finale bride. Wella Hairstylist Eugene Souleiman added red hair peices to the models’ natural matted hair. ‘I wanted the hair pieces to look like an accessory and something really contrasting to the natural hair like a fluoro crimson red. They are bonkers but in a beautiful way.’
6. Skinheads are back in: The Acne collection was a celebration of music in clothes and the inspiration was drawn from music subcultures right from punk through to country and western. There were three girls with skinheads who were cast in the show (including Ruth Bell) and each had a crimson red lip painted on them by Shiseido make-up artist Dick Page.
7. Punk Up a Smokey Eye: Sally Branka made an unusual, punky twist on a smokey eye at Mugler. Instead of lining the whole eye with black kohl pencil she instead placed two dots of black at both the inner and the outer corner of the eye.