Alberta Ferretti's Golden Tan
This was a 24 carat tan. Think Verushka in the desert but in the '70s. 'They are these dreamy desert creatures and there is a goddess-y ethereal quality to them,' explained Tilbury, who worked golden highlights (MAC In Da Bling) in with a cream bronzer (MAC's Improper Copper Creme Colour Base) and sunkissed pink blusher. She accentuated the skin with halo's of gold around the eyes.
Want to get the look? Fake Bake's Faux Glo is our wash-off instant tan of choice and the easy way to get your tan on one day and look pale and interesting the next. Perfect.
MaxMara's David Bowie Eyes
'She's a club kid turned sailor' could be one of the strangest show references we've ever heard, but it totally works. Hitting us with a much-needed pop of colour (and actual makeup) MaxMara's girls were given a generous dose of David Bowie with ultra-graphic angular eyes painted on in neon orange and green.
An unexpected contrast to the nautical vibe present throughout the collection (think rope detailing and a whole host of Breton stripes, Milan who?), we're totally on board (geddit?) with this psychedelic sailor look.
How to get the look? Pro Tom Pecheux used a combination of MAC Pro Paint Sticks in True Chartreuse and Landscape Green for the green eye and Tomato Tomahto from MAC's SS16 Trend Palette for the orange eye, applying each in 'a dynamic and unique shape around the upper brow and eye'. He created the shape edge with the #195 brush before buffing into skin with a #217 brush.
So what does the man himself think? 'I was thinking of doing something graphic so I started by taking a piece of paper and placing it against the face. That's how I came to the final shape - it's almost like they're wearing sunglasses. The shape is almost like a mask but we haven't closed up the shape because that would look too mean and aggressive.
If the shape goes too low it gives you a droopy eye so you have to extend it straight outwards not downwards. The density of the paint is transparent because we want to keep it soft and beautiful. I like fantasy but I don't like when it becomes too hard.' And the inspiration? 90s England and body maps. Sure.
Gucci's Barefaced Beauty
Although there was more in the way of makeup at this season's Gucci show than last- it was still almost undetectable. The starting (and ending) point was a sheer application of the Gucci Face Lustrous Glow Foundation. 'It’s applied very sheerly and we’re wiping off excess, keeping the cheeks very natural and real' explained McGrath.
'I put the foundation on and then I wipe off around the cheeks and any areas where it feels as if you’re killing the skin by having it there. It’s very much the opposite of that way that people are learning to do foundation today- pancake faces and contouring.'
Prada's Gold Lips And Faux Spider Hair Cuts
That’s right, these weren’t clip in winges, Guido Palau actually took scissors to the model’s hair backstage before the show. Two seasons ago he cut into models' sideburns (attractively known as guiches...) but this season he went one step further and trimmed the baby hairs around the perimeter of the face into very fine fringes.
‘The shape is a bit 20s but it’s also a bit like skinhead girls in England in the ‘70s. That very tough extreme hair. We were looking at pictures of girls with spider haircuts, who used to shave their heads but leave the front section long. Cutting hair is a really extreme thing to do at a show. We’re lucky enough that at this show we can cut the hair and the girls do agree to that kind of extreme statement. It’s the authenticity of these girls having a hair cut that make it look very powerful.’
And the lips? Nothing says ludicrously expensive better than a solid gold lip. Make-up artist Pat McGrath was pressing gold pigment over the top of about 2 to 3 layers of theatrical gold lip cream and gold lipstick. ‘It’s eccentric but conservative’ explained McGrath.
‘Mrs Prada wanted to do something that was very strong but in a way conservative and you can’t get any more conservative than accentuating the mouth. To put gold on the mouth is something beyond eccentric – it makes the girls look very powerful, very strong and very daring.’
Giamba's Tangerine Eyes And Foil Nails
‘They’re cool girls who aren’t really interested in makeup but just want a gesture of colour’ said makeup artist Val Garland of the colourful washes over models’ eyelids and brows at Giamba. ‘It’s very very soft – almost as if she’s out at a club and the neon light from the dancefloor is causing a colour on her face.’ There was no specific structure to the application; it was a sheer wash on fresh skin and absolutely no mascara. Garland was adding a little shine to the cheekbones using MAC Extra Dimension Eyeshadow in Lunar.
And the nails? A twist on the classic glitter rockstar nail, pro Keri Blair coated models' nails in multi-coloured scraps of foil for a rough holographic effect. We'll definitely be trying this one at home.
Etro's Golden Peach Tan
Charlotte Tilbury was back on her tan mission again at Etro SS16 but this was far from a ‘you’ve been tangoed’ situation. She was using the new (and not yet launched!) Peach and Gold Strobe Creams from MAC over the high planes of the face like the cheekbones and down the centre of the nose as well as bronze washes over the eyes. ‘These warm metallics are a bit of a trend at the moment,’ Tilbury predicted ‘they are dreamy, ethereal but wearable colours.’ Where do we sign up??
Fendi's Faux Bobs
The brainchild of Sam McKnight, why bother chopping your locks off when you can fake it 'til you make it? Yup, we're talking the faux bob. Starting with a deep side parting, McKnight loosely braided the ends of models' hair before tucking the plait at the nape of the neck and pinning. The inspiration? Margot Tenenbaum 'but a little weirder'.
Recreate the look yourself with our super simple guide to the faux bob HERE.
Moschino's 90s Supermodel Crops
This season's inspiration du jour (see Jean Pierre Braganza and Emilio Pucci), 90s models were back at Moschino. Inspired by Linda Evangelista's shaggy nineties crop, Paul Hanlon bought expensive and cheap wigs, before deciding the slightly tacky looking cheap ones look cooler.
Each model had a wig cut and prepped for them before putting them on. Evangelista eat your heart out.