Gareth Pugh's Plastic Fantastic Painted Faces
What to do when you're beyond putting makeup on actual faces? Put it on a pair of nude tights instead. Obvs. Taking plastic pulp glamour as her inspiration Val Garland placed mesh over models' faces before painting it with blue, white and red MAC acrylics. The best part? The hairy stick on beauty spots to add '3D texture'. Well of course.
Topped off with a ginormous bright red clown-esque wig and extra long scarlet glittery talons, Garland admitted it isn't the easiest look to translate to everyday wear but when it's this fabulous who cares?
J W Anderson's Twisted Ponytail
JW Anderson's woman has done a lot of growing up since last season and had a brief trip to space. Yup, you heard us correctly. According to hair pro Anthony Turner, SS16's woman means business, looks expensive and apparently has enough money to grab a plane ticket to the moon. Casual.
How to recreate that in hair? With perfectly preened, oil slicked locks wound tightly into a twisted rope ponytail that's so perfect it's creepy.
Simone Rocha's Punk Blusher And Adam Ant Plaits
When someone says punk, peachy blusher isn't necessarily the first thing that comes to mind. Unless you're Sam Bryant of course. Blending together two shades of blush, Bryant swept her bespoke blusher over models' temples and up into their hair line. 'It's the placement that makes it punk but in a subtle way.'
Combine that with back-combed Adam Ant style braids and you've got the prettiest punk pirates we've seen in a long time.
House Of Holland's Desert Tan
Take legendary 60s icon Veruschka and Fear And Loathing In Las Vegas and you've got Isamaya Ffrench's inspiration behind her ruddy cheeked, deep tan look at House Of Holland. Wanting models to look like they'd just spent three days in the dessert, Ffrench swept a mix of red blusher with bronzer over models' cheekbones, over the bridge of their nose and up onto the forehead.
And the tan didn't stop there. Instant tanning lotion was applied on arms, legs, pretty much everywhere before bronzing powder was applied to create a matte finish.
Sibling's Serious Lashes
At Sibling today, make-up artist Miranda Joyce was applying graphic eyelashes the size of fly-swats to model’s lids, which turned out to be two sets of falsies that she had flattened together with straightening irons.
‘My assistant and I spent all day yesterday making them with straighteners’ she explained. ‘We accidentally melted a few of them! The flatness of them is anti-pretty but they are still cool and gorgeous.’
Julien MacDonald's 90s Model Makeup
At Julian MacDonald those ‘90s models cropped up again, this time as the subject of the photo greats Lindbergh, Weber and of course Testino. The eyes, painted on by Val Garland for L’Oreal Paris, were SMOKIN’ hot. The sexiest smoky eyes London has seen probably since the ‘90s!
Garland used three products to intensify the lashline (the L’Oreal Paris Super Liner Smokissime, then the Super Liner Felt Tip Pen and then the Color Riche Mono eyeshadow). For some additional ‘sexiness’ (as if this show needed any more?!?) Garland pushed mascara into the very root of the eyelash. The effect intensified the eyeliner and in turn the eye, rather than feeling like an application of mascara.
Paul Smith's Wallis Simpson Inspired Beauty
Taking the infamous Duchess Of Windsor as his inspiration, Paul Smith created the perfect preened 30s woman. Think a dead centre slicked down parting, pulled back twists and pencil thin brows. Taking hair into two pigtails hair pro Tina Outen twisted them into ropes before twisting round each other and pinning at the nape of the neck for 2015's update on a classic chignon.
And the brows? Makeup maestro Petros Petrohilos drew on model's brows thing and straight in a shade just darker than their natural colour to mimic Wallis Simpson's iconic look.
Vivienne Westwood's Shipwrecked Glamazon
Never one to shy away from the outlandish, Vivienne Westwood's girl had not one, but two full on stories behind her glossy look. The first girl? A young lady on a ship realises she's a mermaid and jumps into the sea before swimming to shore and becoming shipwrecked on an island. The result? Glossy, ultra-wet look opalescent skin. Think the inside of a shell. The brainchild of Val Garland, she took loose opalescent pigments, 'anything metallic I could get my hands on' and pushed them into models' skin with her fingers before applying a gloss over the top to add highlights.
The overall effect? Skin that looks a bit like Venetian murano glass. And that's just the first girl. Girl number two is a 60s Ursula Andress-esque siren and she's not such a good swimmer. Clawing her way to the beach, her previously perfect cat eye gets a little smudged along the way. She's glossy and pearly like girl no.1 but the overall feeling is way more dishevelled. Val's secret to that glowing skin? Johnson's baby oil and a whole lot of it to make the face look 'multi-faceted.'
Mary Katrantzou's Bow Back Hair And Dolly Lashes
At Mary Katrantzou only the centre section of models' lashes were coated in mascara (to the point of being clumpy) before being painted with electric blue, turquoise or burgundy MAC acrylics. The result? Eyes that looked like 'a distorted but cute doll'. Continuing the slightly off kilter look was Paul Hanlon's choker meets hair ribbon.
Taking a Petersham grosgrain ribbon inspired by the collection Hanlon used it to pull back model's hair from in front of the neck before tying in a creepily sweet bow and pulling out front sections for a soft billow effect. The hottest hair and fashion accessory this fashion month? We think so!
Roksanda's 1970s Dinner Party Chic
Yet another blue eye to turn up at fashion week (check out Mary Katrantzou, DVF, Jenny Packham etc) Roksanda's girl rocked 70s inspired marine lids with softly crimped hair. But we're not talking disco here. Models had the from section of their hair plaited before being ironed with hair straighteners and brushed out for a soft crimp around the face.
The best part? It's meant to look a little frizzy. Now that's a high fashion look we can get on board with.
Christopher Kane's Cable Ties
First Mary Katrantzou made her chokers multi-task by adorning models with black Petersham ribbons that tied round their necks into a bow around their hair, and now it seems the two birds, one stone approach is catching. Jumping on the 90s choker bandwagon, Christopher Kane took things one step further using plastic cable ties emblazoned with 'Christopher Kane' to keep models' hair in place.
Making their way into two different hairstyles created by the legend that is Guido Palau, the humble hair tie officially went high fashion. With the plastic ties holding back ponytails on some models and used as collars on others, Palau trod a dangerous line between chic and deadly saying, 'You'll have to excuse me, I think I've done the cable tie up too tight!'. Who ever said beauty wasn't risky business?
Burberry's Oxblood Lips
They may have given us a sneak peek of the beauty look via Snapchat the day before the models took to the runway, but we're still in lust with Burberry's oxblood lips. Blurred around the edges for a modern feel, makeup pro Wendy Rowe said, 'This is how to wear bold lips. In making them soft at the edges, it will give that feeling of fullness, so it works even on small lips. And it's all the more convenient for kissing.' Win, win.
Ashish's Sequin Lids And Rockstar Nails
'She a cool skater girl that's got lost in a sequin factory', says makeup pro Sharon Dowsett describing Ashish's SS16 girl. But of course.
And what does a skater girl lost in a sequin factory wear on her eyes and nails? Sequins, duh. Getting models to apply their own mascara (Dowsett always does this, 'It saves time when it's hectic backstage', Dowsett then applied individual sequins (given to her by Ashish himself no less) to eyelids using a cotton bud dipped in eyelash glue.
The trick? To pick the sequin up with the cotton bud so it doesn't get stuck to your fingertip instead of your eye. From pink and green to blue and yellow, models had a rainbow of sequins applied to eyelids and had the fun of choosing. Mid-chat, a model asked Sharon if she could have pink because she was in a girly mood and Dowsett happily obliged. That's team work we can get on board with.
With sequins on eyes and adorning the entire collection, it seemed only right that hair should get in on the action. Models' loose waves were sprayed with hairspray in sections before sequins were poured into their hair in the lineup. And the sparkle didn't stop there. Enter the rockstar rainbow nails.
So named by nail pro Michelle Humphrey, nails were painted with Maybelline's Peel Off base coat before a rainbow of candy colours were applied and neon glitter pressed in. A super shiny top coat and Maybelline's genius Dr Rescue Drying Drops (aka the most genius product to hit LFW backstage ever) finished them off for, as Michelle put it, 'a glitter frenzy'.