BIG BROW RULES
“Fashion trends are always changing but if we’ve learnt anything from this resurgence in bigger brows it’s not to over-pluck!” says Giorgio Armani Beauty National Face Designer, Vanessa D'Ambrosio. “They don’t always grow back and thinner brows can be very ageing.” Instead she recommends working with what you have and using make-up to cheat the look you want. Her top tips?
1) Do your hundred strokes
Always brush the hairs upwards and in the direction you want them to lie to create the illusion of a fuller brow. “Brushing regularly helps to encourage the hairs to grow in the direction you desire, just like the hairs on your head,” says Vanessa.
2) Less is more
“Always start off with a small amount of product, gradually building up the colour as you go,” says Vanessa who recommends that you do this is natural light so that you don’t get a shock when you step outside. “Start off by applying the product against the natural direction of growth and then brush the hairs back in the correct direction and repeat until you get the desired look. By applying in this way you’re colouring the individual hairs rather than leaving a block colour on the skin. Afterall, you’re trying to create a fuller brow not drawing on entire new brow in,” she adds.
3) Twice as nice
“For a stronger brow, choose two shades,” says Eoin Whelan, Giorgio Armani National Face Designer. “One should match your natural brow colour whilst the other one needs to be slightly darker to create heavier definition around the fuller part of the brow and the arch. It’s making a statement but still looks natural because it creates a variation in tone, just like real hair does.”
4) Location location
“Don't start your applying product next to the bridge of your nose as that will make you look like you are frowning,” says Eoin.“Instead, start applying at the arch of your brow where your hair is at its most dense and for the inner corner of your eye (where your brow begins) use your finger to smudge a bit of the leftover product whilst pushing the hairs up, as this will achieve that bushy Cara Delevingne look.”
HOW TO SHAPE UP
1) “First, identify the shape of your own brow,” says Vanessa. “You can do this by getting your brush or pencil and lining it up with your nostril directly upwards. The brush will pass the inner corner of the eye and this will provide you with where your brow should begin. Next, from the outer edge of the iris, line the brush straight up (resting flat on the cheek) which will give you where your arch should be. Finally, place the brush diagonally from the nostril passing the outer corner of the eye to give you the point at which the brow should finish.”
GAME, SET, MATCH
“Although we might assume that the brows match the colour of our hair, the reality is they don't, and that’s even before the salon visits” says Vanessa. “As a general rule, keep to warmer toned shades but most importantly, try the shade on in store before purchasing. A shade that's the colour of your natural brow (even if you dye the hair on your head) will keep the brow looking natural. Go for a product with a slight iridescence to it to mimic the shine of natural hair as matte colour can make brows look fake rather than full."
NEATEN UP - INSTANTLY
“Adding a touch of concealer underneath your brow right up against the base of the hair will emphasize the shape with clear and clean precision without the need to tweeze,” says Vanessa.
OUR ULTIMATE BROW KIT:
MAC Brow Set, £13.50
Tweezerman Glitterati Safari Slant tweezers, £27.00
Benefit brows a-go-go, £27.50
Giorgio Armani Eye and Brow Maestro, £26.50
Maybelline New York Brow Satin Smoothing Duo, £5.99.
By Cassie Steer