Nu Yawk – concrete jungle where dreams are made of and all that, but when it comes to backstage beauty trends it does tend to play things a little safe (read boring). BUT…. In the sea of ‘raw skin’ and natural hair references out pops a trend that’s as unexpected as it is welcome. The future’s looking bright, the future (SS16) is looking blue…..
“Colour blocking for eyes” was how make-up guru Val Garland described the flashes of blue (ok, and green) eyeliner backstage at Monique (MAC’s ‘Electric Eel’ eyeshadow and MAC Chromacake in ‘Landscape Green’). The reference was a girl about town and this girl is no shrinking wallflower. “The skin is super fresh and flawless so that you’re drawn to this stamp of primary colour,” says Val who added a touch of strobing (“it’s been around for donkeys’ years” she said of the new ‘trend’) and a hint of balm on the lips.
Diane Von Furstenberg
“Diane wanted a butterfly effect on the eyes that was a bit Studio 54 meets a Pre-Raphaelite painting” divulged make-up guru Pat McGrath as she was putting the finishing touches to Karlie Kloss’ greeny-blue eyeshadow. How to do a butterfly on your eyes? “Apply a blue shimmer close to the lashline blending out to a green shimmer around the eyes (the colour of the green depends on your skintone). Finish with tons of mascara and a warm rosy blush.”
Read more: Would YOU try a blue lip?
“It’s couture rock ‘n roll” said Make-up artist Talia Sparrow of the PJ Harvey-inspired blue eye at Jenny Packham. “Imprecision is the key here – it’s a ticked up wing but I’m letting the natural oils of the lid determine where it goes so each girl is slightly different.” She complimented her custom-blended blue with a slash of matte red on the lips for a show-stopper of a look.
Strictly speaking there were five ‘candy colour’ shades on the nails at Jeremy Scott but the blue (‘No More Room For The Blues’) was the only one that had been especially made for the show. Each pop art-inspired nail was ‘super super shiny’ as a nod to the plastic-fantastic shoes in the collection and each nail had a hand-painted fake highlight or sparkle like the ones you see in cartoons.
3.1 Phillip Lim
“Organic New Romanticism” was Nars make-up artist Francelle Daly’s description of the look at Phillip Lim. If you’re wondering what the heck that means it’s a bit Boy George, a bit Steve Strange but with a modern ease to it. “Turquoise blue is a shade that most people tend to be a bit scared of if they’re going down the blue route,” says Francelle. “It’s a bit more unconventional but it actually works really well on lots of different skintones.” She applied the eyeliner to the outer half of the upper eyelid and the inner quarter of the lower lashline for a ‘negative space’ effect that felt ultra cool but ultra wearable.