Colour blending backstage at PFW SS16
It’s all getting a bit Blue Peter backstage at Paris Fashion Week. Make-up Artists and hairstylists alike are turning fashion shows into their very of Bake Off events by custom blending new shades and textures from well loved products in their kit. Don’t be put off by the technical side – these concoctions are easy as pie (pun intended) to cook up yourself at home. Here are 5 of our favourites...
1. The DIY Highlighter = Face Cream + Pure Pearl Pigment
At Chalayan, make-up artist Mark Carrasquillo needed something more than your regular highlight to apply to the bow of the lip and the bridge of the nose. ‘I want the face to be really extra lit so we mixed up our own product using a very nice, super oily face cream and some pure pearl pigment. It gives you a very old school shine.’
2. The Yellow Ochre Lip = MAC Lipmix in Yellow + Brown + Orange + Red
Yellow Ochre is not your average lip shade. You’re unlikely to find it in your local Boots.... But if you’re dead set on following this SS16 trend then try out make-up artist Lineisy Alexander’s home blend for Kenzo. ‘I have custom blended the colour so it’s very bespoke to Kenzo. It’s a very specific desert, sand ochre from the collection – like a caramel sepia.’ Lineisy mixed 50% Yellow Lip Mix from Mac and then added Tone Brown, Orange and Red Lipmix.
3. The Red Lip that goes with everything = Shiseido Icon Lipstick in Dragon Red + Crimson red
Make-up artist Dick page was tasked with custom blending a red lip to match several different genres of music that inspired the collection at Acne. ‘The music theme runs from post punk to electronica and country and western. We were thinking of a single gesture or motif that would carry through the collection and of course that’s a red lip – a red lip goes everywhere. Red lip goes to the rodeo, red lip goes to the opera, red lip goes to the punk party.’ He mixed Shiseido’s Icon shade in Dragon Rouge with an as yet unnamed Crimson red protoptype from the Shiseido lab and applied to the mouth with a lip brush.
4. The high shine wetlook hair product = Bumble & bumble Surf Infusion + Hair Oil
At Kenzo, hair stylist Anthony Turner was faced with the challenge of giving the model’s with cropped hair a wetlook that had a beachy texture without using heavy gels. I’m using Bumble & bumble Surf Infusion which is a surf spray but with a hair oil mixed so you get kind of this surfy texture but with a high shine so that makes it look wet. It dries with a beachy texture but with a really high shine that still looks wet hours later.’
5. Neon Face Inks = MAC colour pigments + H2O + A straw
Certainly the most creative bit of kitchen cosmetics that we saw all of Paris Fashion Week was the blown-on ink splatters at Issey Miyake. Alex Box was mixing tiny amounts of neon bright colour pigments from Mac with a cup of water and then dropping some onto the outer corner of the eye. Then using her straw (yes, a drinks straw!) Box blew the makeshift paint into organic shapes that resembled leaves or splashes over the temples.