Backstage at London Fashion Week for the AW18 showcases, the best make-up, hair, and nail artists ploughed their energies into creating fantastical beauty looks that feed the current appetite for enhancing individual beauty, tinged with a hint of nostalgia, a touch of glitter, and - of course - that indefatigable spirit of celebrating all things creative that is always present at LFW.
Here is a break down of the key trends that you can expect to come to know very well as the year progresses…
Possibly the most exciting beauty development of recent years is this sense of the model and the girl coming first. Beauty experts were hammering home this nonconformity as much as possible, with hairdresser Guido Palau perfectly summarising the movement by explaining backstage at Preen that he was keen to use GHDs merely to bring out the temperament of individual hair - not to make it adhere to any one style.
Make-up was similarly inspired by the individual, with Val Garland backstage at Erdem and Charlotte Tilbury at Temperley London creating a variety of looks to suit different skin tones and face shapes.
The Take Home, Do you, embellished. What works for one person won’t necessarily work for you, so just choose what you’d like to amplify and how, then enjoy projecting whichever version of you you’d like to.
Gloss and Shine
While there isn’t necessarily a place, per se, upon which make-up artists were conferring gloss, it was a real presence throughout the shows. From the glossy eyes that Lucy Bridge applied using Zelens to models backstage at Emilia Wickstead, to the silver accents Lynsey Alexander swept onto models’ cupid’s bows and around their tear ducts at Mary Katrantzou, and the metallic glossy lids by Sam Bryant at Simone Rocha, this is the trend to hit up if you like to add a reflective element to your look.
The Take Home, This one is completely and utterly customisable. If you want to go for entry level gloss, make like make-up artist Lucy Burt did backstage at Huishan Zhang did and smooth some Evolve Organic Beauty Leg Gloss onto limbs, or go in a bit harder and go for eye gloss or a little metallic.
The 1970s are having a moment, with Charlotte Tilbury citing them as the inspiration for the bright, matte orange lips backstage at Temperley London, while Ashish and Halpern both took inspiration from ‘70s disco, channelling it through washes of colour around eyes and artfully arranged hair.
But it’s not just the ‘70s that’s in the spotlight. The Erdem make-up and hair both referenced ‘30s film noir, with Val Garland applying rings of Nars powdery black eyeshadow around models’ eyes, and Anthony Turner using his Dyson Supersonic to create retro waves that were then embellished with bobby pins.
Ismaya Ffrench also drew inspiration fro the 1940s for the graphic Ryan Lo make-up, and Naoko Scintu created a ‘60s-inspited graphic eye on clean, dewy skin using Suqqu backstage at David Koma.
The Take Home. Feel free to borrow your current look from history - though give it a modern uptake by keeping skin glossy and healthy-looking. Oh - and if you’re after a perfect ‘70s red, grab Charlotte Tilbury Hot Lips in Tell Laura, which is the shade Charlotte used on models backstage.
The beauty world is nowhere near over its love of glitter, with it making an appearance in a haze of shine across foreheads at Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, on lips at Ryan Lo, on eyelids at Halpern and Ashley Williams, and even in hair backstage at Sophia Webster, where heaps of the sparkly stuff was poured onto partings.
The Take Home. The key thing is to pick a colour that works either on skin or to complement a look - Val Garland used MAC pigments backstage at Preen by Thornton Bregazzi to really enhance the look of having just emerged from water, for example, while the disco look at Halpern was really served by the lilac and colourful glitter particles.
The ebullience of London’s catwalks was evident in the bright colours that were cracked out backstage by Sam and Nic Chapman using Bobbi Brown for Lulu Guinness, by Thomas de Kluyver at Ashley Williams and at Peter Pilotto using MAC Cosmetics.
While the colour spectrum was diverse, it can't be denied that pink and warm, sunset-inspired colours are still going strong, and these were the colours that really shone this season.
The Take Home. This is such an easy one to work with. If you don't fancy colour around your eyes, just do a bold lip to channel the colourful vibe.