1) The easy, peasy nail art trick
The tribal-esque nail tattoos at Giamba may look as though you’d need a Blue Peter badge to recreate them but MAC’s nail technician extraordinaire Keri Blair proved that all it takes is a little practice. Using a paintbrush dipped in black nail varnish she painted little motifs (these can be as simple as you like) onto a sheet of clear plastic. She then simply peeled them off when dry, applied them to the nail and finished with a coat of clear gloss to seal them in. “This is a great way of doing nail art without actually having to paint them onto your nails which can be tricky for a lot of people especially on your right hand (or left hand if you’re left-handed)!” says Keri.
2) The invisible mascara tip
At Iceberg, make-up artist Violette wanted the models to look like “a better version of themselves”. We all know that defined eyes and fluttery lashes generally do just that but sometimes (holidays for example) mascara can be over-kill. Her top tip? “Apply tiny dots of brown khol pencil between each lash so that when you close your eyes you don’t see a definite line but when you open them it really makes your eyes pop.” Violette then used a fan brush to paint on a veil of mascara that’s so thin it doesn’t add any texture and instead, just makes you look as though you have amazing lashes.
3) How to backcomb your lashes (really)
This may sound bizarre (and kind of ouch-y) but it’s a trick make-up maestro Andrew Gallimore employed at Holly Fulton where he wanted the models to look like Kate Moss coming out of a party the next morning with definition at the eyes but without looking too ‘done.’ How? Wipe off any excess mascara from your wand before placing it halfway down the lashes then bringing the wand towards the eyelid. Allow to dry and repeat before applying another coat of mascara in the usual way. And voila, sexy smoldering eyes with definition and volume at the base of the lashes.
4) The temporary facelift trick
Feeling a bit deflated about an impending birthday? Fear not, as hair guru Eugene Souleiman proved that you don’t need to resort to surgery to give yourself a little lift backstage at Emilio Pucci. Despite appearances, the ‘Marianne Faithful-meets-Cher’ manes actually belied some itty bitty braids which started at the sides of the face and were pulled back and secured under the hair a few inches above the nape of the neck. “I wanted to be kind to the girls and give them a bit of a lift as at this stage in the game they’re all feeling a bit tired,” said Eugene.
5) The real-looking fake tan
Let’s face it – most of us have been ‘tango’d’ at some point in our fake tan/bronzing past and for some of us finding that perfect ‘I’ve just got back from a weekend in Ibiza’ glow remains as elusive as Jimmy Carr’s tax return. Luckily make-up artist extraordinaire Lucia Pieroni let us into the secret to looking naturally sun-kissed backstage at Moschino; “I wanted the models to look really healthy, as though they’d spent an afternoon on the beach. To get the look I started off by using MAC’s Studio Face And Body Foundation (£21.50) a few shades darker than their natural skintone. For example if they are a C2 I’m taking them up to a C6 making sure I apply it behind the neck, over the ears, across the décolleté and anywhere the skin is showing. To ensure the tan doesn’t look flat or too yellow, I then buffed in MAC’s Mineralise Skinfinish (£23) in ‘Soft and Gentle’ in a ‘C’ shape from the browbone to the cheekbone, also applying a touch where the sun would naturally hit such as on the nose and cupids bow. To me you can tell a tan is fake when it looks too yellow and this way it just looks as though you’ve caught the sun.”
6) The dry ‘wet’ hair
Wet hair is always on the catwalks. Every.single.season. But one of the reasons it hasn’t quite caught on in the local All Bar One is that generally, a wet-look requires a lot of product (and sticky, oily product at that). Not anymore though thanks to hair stylist Odile Gilbert who explained that by using a hydrating hair crème rather than tons of wax or hairspray you can get that ‘wet but dry’ look she show-cased at Altuzarra.
7) Blusher that looks like you’re blushing
The secret to that true-to-life flush? Two hues. Don’t believe us? Let the make-up artists convince you; “I wanted the skin to look luminous rather than cosmetic-y so I buffed a pink blusher into the skin first before patting a bit of red blush over the top to mimic how the blood pools to the surface naturally,” sais Gucci Westman backstage at Rag & Bone.
“I used a brown and red cream blush for the cheek and applied it with a really big fluffy brush to form a generalised haze of blusher which looked as though the models had been running outside,” said Dick Page backstage at Michael Kors.
“The models were meant to look as though they’d been running around the Highlands so I created my ‘weathered cheek’ using a blusher in a reddy-brown colour and buffing it onto the apples of the cheeks before dragging it downwards and outwards. I then finished by applying a bit of red lipstick in the centre of the cheek for that realistic, wind-beaten look.”
8) The invisible hairspray tip
Think hairspray and huge, lacquered coifs that could survive a nuclear fall-out spring to mind. But the age-old styling tool doesn’t have to be quite so in-your-face. Make like the hair supremos do and spritz it onto your fingers before raking through the top of your hair to give a bit of cool-girl texture a la Victoria Beckham or to rein-in flyaways like Orlando Pita did at Diane Von Furstenburg.
9) Go gold with your highlighter
Pale is so not interesting for AW15. The new way to highlight is by going for gold. At Diane Von Furstenburg, make-up legend Pat McGrath used a gold eyeshadow on the tops of the cheeks for her ‘modern, glamorous’ look. Over at Matthew Williamson make-up artist Lisa Potter-Dixon buffed gold onto the apples of the cheeks, the centre of the nose, the high points of the face and the lids to add a subtle highlight to the skin. Whilst continuing with the subtle theme, make-up maestro Lucia Pieroni went for a gold illuminating pen to add life and luminosity to the skin – but not so that you’d ever detect it.
10) The slept-in-braids look without actually having to sleep in braids
Fact, sometimes your hair looks better after it’s been slept in and this was the look that hair supremo Paul Hanlon was going for at 3.1 Phillip Lim where he wanted the wave to resemble the texture you get after you’ve woken up having braided your hair when it was still damp. But short of sending 45 models to bed, the next best thing was to apply a prep spray to damp hair, blowdry until 80% dry, put some loose plaits in and then use a flat iron along the length of the plait to set them before taking out and spritzing with a shine spray. Et voila! Slept-in plaits with no sleep required!